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Restaurant offers modern fare, hints of Southern flair
By John KesslerThe Atlanta Journal-Constitution
Saturday, November 01, 2008
Granted, pigs don’t fly. But if Hogzilla does go anywhere near Hartsfield-Jackson International Airport, he should watch his cloven-hooved step.
One Flew South, an upscale new restaurant on the E Concourse, plans to feature “Georgia feral pig ragu” on its ambitious Southern-themed menu.
The restaurant, slated to open Nov. 12, will seat around 100 and offer creative contemporary cooking with Southern inflections as well as a full sushi bar designed to appeal to the international travelers who will encounter it first upon arrival in Atlanta. It is owned and operated as a partnership between Jackmont Hospitality (the food service company that operates the T.G.I. Friday’s in the airport) and Global Concessions.
On Friday, the principals invited local politicians, Delta brass and media for a soft opening and a sampling of the menu designed by executive chef Todd Richards.
“We are committed to using regional ingredients and items from this area,” said Richards, who previously worked as chef at the highly regarded Oakroom at the Seelbach Hotel in Louisville, Ky.
True to his word, Richards served a salad garnished with both Sweet Grass Dairy goat cheese from Thomasville and Benton’s bacon from Madisonville, Tenn. Other dishes —- smoked trout croquettes and roasted pork belly —- also hew to the Southern theme.
The kitchen crew has to deal with a few logistical problems they wouldn’t encounter elsewhere. Daily fresh fish deliveries have to pass through security between 11 p.m. and 6 a.m., and kitchen knives must be chained to the walls.
The interior design by Atlanta’s Johnson Studio incorporates primary materials from Georgia, such as the Cherokee Rose marble used for tabletops and columns. A photo mural of a nearby forest dominates the wall behind the sushi bar.
Airport employees may be the potential customers who are most eagerly anticipating the restaurant’s opening.
“I’m going to walk here from my office next week and get my exercise,” airport general manager Ben DeCosta said. “Then I can get a healthy meal. Sushi’s healthy, right?”